The valley of jade green is every spring landscape of the Chinese painters at once: pines on the ridges, bamboo by the water, cherry and peach blossom on the slopes and a clear river through the middle. Landscape painting was called shanshui, “mountain and water”, and the mountain and the water are where the immortals live.
Shanshui painting, from Jing Hao and Fan Kuan in the 10th–11th centuries.
Kunlun was the axis of the world, a mountain that joined earth to Heaven, where the Queen Mother of the West kept her palace, her Jade Pool and her peach garden. The real Kunlun range runs for three thousand kilometres across the north of the Tibetan Plateau, and the Yellow River was once believed to rise there.
Classic of Mountains and Seas; Huainanzi, “Terrestrial Forms” (Dixing).
火焰山Flaming Mountains
Huǒyàn Shān
In Journey to the West the pilgrims reach mountains of fire eight hundred li across that no one can cross. Sun Wukong has to trick the Princess Iron Fan three times into lending him her palm-leaf fan, which puts the fire out. The real Flaming Mountains rise near Turpan in Xinjiang, red sandstone cliffs that shimmer at over 50 °C in summer.
Journey to the West, chapters 59–61.
“I stop my carriage, for I love the maple wood at dusk; frost-touched leaves are redder than the flowers of spring.” Du Mu's little poem made the autumn maple one of the best loved sights in China. On the Double Ninth Festival people climb the hills to see the colours.
Du Mu, “Mountain Walk” (Shanxing), 9th century.
On the fifteenth night of the first month, the first full moon of the year, the curfew of the old capitals was lifted and the whole city came out among the lanterns: lanterns shaped like fish, dragons and rabbits, lantern riddles to guess, and sweet rice balls, yuanxiao, to eat.
The Lantern Festival is recorded from the Han dynasty; the Tang lifted the curfew for three nights.
An oasis town on the Silk Road between China and Central Asia, beside the Crescent Moon Spring and the singing sand dunes. In the cliffs nearby, monks and merchants carved and painted the Mogao Caves over a thousand years: nearly five hundred shrines. In 1900 a hidden library of fifty thousand manuscripts was found in one of them.
The Mogao Caves were begun in 366 CE; a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.
天宫Heavenly Palace
Tiāngōng
The Heavenly Palace is the court of the Jade Emperor above the clouds, where gods and immortals hold office like ministers in an earthly capital. Journey to the West opens here: Sun Wukong is given a lowly post minding the heavenly horses, steals the Peaches of Immortality and the elixir of Laozi, and fights his way through the Southern Gate, Nantianmen, until the Buddha traps him beneath a mountain.
Journey to the West (Wu Cheng'en, 16th century), chapters 4 to 7.